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Today, a cool girl is coaxed from a bedroom iPhone shoot into a professional studio.” These young women, Stagg notes, “are, more often than not, self-described homebodies, even antisocial. She spends her time alone and is seen on Instagram, where her “art direction” is what makes her desirable. The new It Girl is someone who takes photos of herself, at home. In a different era, the It Girl was someone whose photo was taken by onlookers at all the good parties. “I know they must be thinking that what their physical high school classmates think of their physical bodies will never matter.”
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that I didn’t have this fear about very young people trying to stay home so that a bigger audience could appreciate a more constructed image,” Stagg writes in the book’s most sprawling essay, “Out of State,” adapted from a recurring column she wrote for Spike magazine. (“Women are so trendy right now,” one woman says to another at the launch of a women-only magazine in Stagg’s essay “Naming Names,” maybe the book’s best and driest punch line.) Most interesting to me, and possibly to the compilers of future influencer-authenticity reports, Stagg digs into the question of what a modern “It Girl” is like.įor the most part, this It Girl spends her time alone and is seen on Instagram.“I just wish. This background makes Stagg uniquely suited to parse the strange stuff we’ve been doing to women lately in the name of giving them more freedom-typically, in actuality, just making them more marketable. She remembers working on an app that could “recommend all the ways to become beautiful,” then an app that took “mood selfies.” Stagg is best known for her fashion work-particularly as an editor at V magazine-but Sleeveless also touches on her brief tech career. That’s literally how Instagram works.Ĭoincidentally, this email arrived the same day as a new essay collection by the New York fashion and culture writer Natasha Stagg, Sleeveless: Fashion, Image, Media, New York 2011-2019, from Semiotext(e). And at the same time, of course she doesn’t. How can you ask if a person authentically “lives and breathes” what she’s presenting when what she’s presenting is herself? That’s literally how a body works. This is pretty par for the course for a report like this, from a company like this, but the word authenticity has specifically been driving me up the wall lately, especially when it’s applied to people. The report also suggested the use of “soft metrics,” which apparently entails looking at a person’s Instagram profile and taking note of the tone and frequency of her responses to her “audience,” judging how “natural and authentic the content feels,” and deciding whether the influencer really “lives and breathes what they are presenting.”
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Inside, I found advice on how to determine the authenticity of an influencer: Request Google Analytics information from her (to prove that her numbers “add up”), ask for quantitative results of previous “brand campaigns,” map her audience demographics-all told, fairly standard stuff.
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The email was about, as emails often are, a recently compiled report about the business of selling things on Instagram, which promised to “tackle the concept of what authenticity really means today.” The PDF’s cover was an image of a beautiful white woman wearing pink eye shadow and putting her hand to her mouth-which was, needless to say, open. “Authenticity is the most critical attribute to building influence,” the company’s website reads. Last Tuesday morning, my first unread email was from Influencer Intelligence, an analytics company that works with people who want to hire influencers and celebrities to advertise things.
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